The short answer
Old Baba Mandir: what visitors should know first
Visit if you are interested in the legend and in military culture along the border. The shrine is simple and quiet, but reaching it involves steps at high altitude. The newer temple on the Nathu La road is easier for many travellers.
History and context
The story behind Old Baba Mandir
Baba Harbhajan Singh (30 August 1946 - 4 October 1968) was an Indian Army soldier of the 23 Punjab Regiment, who died near Nathu La. A board at his shrine says he fell into a nullah while escorting a mule column. Wikipedia describes the older mandir and bunker as lying on the road between Tukla La and Heart Lake (Khecheopalri), a few kilometres south of the newer temple, but other sources place it differently, so check locally.
Useful facts
Old Baba Mandir facts at a glance
- Location
- Near Nathang/Kupup; sources differ on exact site
- Faith
- Soldier's shrine; folk devotion
- Dedication
- Baba Harbhajan Singh (1946-1968)
- Visitor note
- Steps at altitude; dress modestly
- Newer temple
- On NH-717B between Sherathang and Kupup
Why it matters
Why Old Baba Mandir is worth your time
Baba Harbhajan Singh (1946-1968) was a sepoy in 23 Punjab Regiment who died near Nathu La at 22. After his death a legend grew that he still guards the border, and he is honoured by soldiers and villagers alike. Wikipedia notes he was given honorary captain rank.
The shrine matters because it shows how faith and military life overlap at the border. It is also one of the best-known sites of the region, with both an older shrine at the bunker site and a newer temple on the Gangtok-Nathu La road, each carrying the same story.
Highlights
What not to miss
- 01
Bunker site
The older shrine is at the place associated with his deployment.
- 02
The legend
A story of duty that soldiers and locals keep alive.
- 03
Quiet setting
Less visited than the newer temple.
Plan your visit
How to experience it
Your driver will take you along the Silk Route road towards the shrine; confirm which temple you are visiting, since there are two. The older shrine is at the site associated with his bunker, and the newer one is a few kilometres away on the road between Sherathang and Kupup.
Follow the climb slowly, resting at each landing. Staff or caretakers can explain local custom. Keep silent and respectful, and remove shoes where asked.
The legend is part of daily life for soldiers here, so treat the shrine as a place of faith rather than a curiosity. Combine it with Kupup and Nathang, keeping to the vehicle route.
Plan with confidence
Visit as a guest, not a spectator.
- Confirm whether you are visiting the old or new shrine
- Dress modestly and remove shoes where asked
- Climb slowly at altitude
- Ask before photographing
- Follow army and staff instructions
Know before you go
Timing, access and comfort
- Area
- Near Nathang and Kupup, East Sikkim
- Time needed
- 30-45 minutes
- Best time
- Daylight hours in clear weather
- Walking level
- Moderate
- Senior comfort
- Reaching the shrine involves a flight of steps (one source says about 50) at high altitude, with cold wind and little seating. Older visitors may prefer the newer temple on the Nathu La road, which is easier to reach.
- Tickets and access
- Dress modestly and follow army and temple staff instructions; photography rules vary, so ask first. Do not enter restricted areas. Zuluk lies in a border area. Sources describe a Protected Area Permit for Indian nationals only, issued at Rongli, with photo ID and photographs; rules and offices change, so confirm with Sikkim Tourism or your registered operator before travelling.
Best for
Plan it with
Plan the practical part
Hotels near Old Baba Mandir
Staying close keeps journeys short — useful for early starts and for anyone who tires quickly.
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Travelling with parents?
Reaching the shrine involves a flight of steps (one source says about 50) at high altitude, with cold wind and little seating. Older visitors may prefer the newer temple on the Nathu La road, which is easier to reach.
Raahzo can arrange an arrival or day companion who handles tickets, queues and pacing, and keeps the family updated.
See concierge supportFAQs
Who was Baba Harbhajan Singh?
An Indian Army sepoy of the 23 Punjab Regiment who died near Nathu La in 1968, around whom a popular legend grew.
Old or new Baba Mandir?
The old shrine is at the bunker site; the newer temple is on the road between Sherathang and Kupup. The newer one is easier for most visitors.
Are there steps?
One source mentions about 50 steps to the bunker. Take them slowly at this altitude.
Sources and further reading
- Wikipedia: Baba Harbhajan Singh
- Darjeeling Tourism: Zuluk and the Silk Route
- Discover with Dheeraj: Old Silk Route, East Sikkim
Timings, fees and access rules change. Recheck with the official source before you travel.
