Wat Banan, Battambang: History, highlights and visitor guide

History and context

The story behind Wat Banan

Wikipedia dates the temple to the eleventh century, in the reign of Udayadityavarman II, son of Suryavarman I. Although the king was Shaivite, many of the sculptures are Buddhist; Wikipedia suggests these came from a rebuilding under Jayavarman VII in the late twelfth century.

Like sculpture at Angkor, many figures were later defaced, and the site has been looted. It is nonetheless described as the best preserved of the Khmer temples in Battambang Province.

Useful facts

Wat Banan facts at a glance

Location

Banan district, south of Battambang city

Experience type

Hilltop Angkorian temple with a long staircase

Known for

Five towers that resemble Angkor Wat in miniature

Built

11th century, under Udayadityavarman II

Dress code

Cover shoulders and knees; remove shoes at the shrine

Time or schedule

Daylight hours; check with your driver

Why it matters

Why Wat Banan is worth your time

Wat Banan is a good introduction to Khmer temple building for travellers who will not reach Angkor, or who want a counterpoint to it. Built in the eleventh century, it shows the laterite, sandstone and five-tower plan that Khmer builders developed before the great temples of the twelfth century, and it sits in a farming landscape that has changed little in feel.

It matters also as a place that is still used. The sanctuary at the top holds Buddhist images and worshippers, so the temple is not only an archaeological site but a part of local religious life. That mix of ancient Hindu architecture and living Theravada practice is common in Cambodia and worth noticing here, where the crowds are small enough to notice it.

Highlights

What not to miss

1. 01

   The staircase and nagas

   A long laterite flight flanked by naga balustrades leads up the hill and sets the mood of the visit.

2. 02

   The five towers

   The summit platform holds five towers whose layout is often compared with Angkor Wat's.

3. 03

   Views over the rice fields

   From the top you look across flat farmland, a reminder of why the province is called Cambodia's rice bowl.

Plan your visit

How to experience it

Arrive soon after the site opens, when the stone is still cool and the long staircase is in shade from the hillside trees. The steps are flanked by naga balustrades and rise in several flights, so take them in stages and rest on the landings. A hat, water and shoes with a proper grip matter more than a camera.

At the top, five brick-and-stone towers stand on a platform, the arrangement that led visitors to call the temple a small Angkor Wat. The stonework is worn and partly collapsed in places, and some carvings were defaced long ago, but the towers are in better repair than most ancient temples in the province. Walk slowly round the platform and look at the lintels and the Buddhist images that sit among older Hindu-period sculpture.

The view over rice fields from the summit is the reward for the effort. Combine Banan with a bamboo train ride and, if energy allows, Phnom Sampeau on the same day, using a driver who can wait for you. Avoid the middle of the day, when the climb is exposed and the stone radiates heat.

Know before you go

Timing, access and comfort

Area

Banan district, south of Battambang city

Time needed

1.5 to 2 hours including the climb

Best time

Early morning or late afternoon; November to February

Walking level

Demanding

Senior comfort

The approach is a long, steep flight of laterite steps with no handrail along most of it and almost no shade, so it is hard on knees and in the heat. Older visitors can enjoy the view from the lower sections and the foot of the hill, where it is level.

Tickets and access

A combined ticket with Phnom Sampeau has been reported at about US$3 per visitor, but fees change, so confirm at the gate or with your driver. Cover shoulders and knees, remove shoes where asked, and treat the shrine as an active Buddhist place.

Plan it with

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