Battambang is Cambodia's third-largest city, with about 119,000 residents at the 2019 census, and it sits on the Sangkae River in the country's northwest. It began as a fishing village in the eleventh century, passed to Siam in 1795 and returned to Cambodia under French administration in 1907. The French left a grid of streets, canals, bridges and shophouses that still shape the old centre.
It is a slow town and that is its appeal. There is no single giant monument. Instead you get a walkable colonial core, the 1936 Art Deco central market, a respected arts school that stages a circus, and a ring of countryside sights: the hilltop temple of Wat Banan, the ruined riverside temple of Wat Ek Phnom, and Phnom Sampeau, a hill whose caves are both Buddhist shrines and a Khmer Rouge memorial.
For Indian families, Battambang works best as a two-night stop between Siem Reap and Phnom Penh, or as a calmer base for travellers who find Angkor crowds tiring. Distances are short and the pace is gentle, but heat, steps at the hill sites and limited Indian food are real considerations.
Be candid about food. Cambodian cooking uses fish sauce and fermented fish widely, and we found no Pure Veg or Jain restaurant with evidence. There are a few vegetarian and vegan-friendly places, which we describe in the food section with their limits.
Before you plan
Battambang at a glance
- Best months
- November to February is driest and…November to February is driest and most comfortable; March to May is hot, and May to October is the rainy season.
- Ideal trip length
- 2 days covers the town and the main…2 days covers the town and the main temples; 3 days allows a slower pace or a day trip.
- Airport
- The city's own airport is closed to…The city's own airport is closed to passengers; most visitors fly to Siem Reap-Angkor (SAI) and travel about 4 hours by road, or to Phnom Penh (PNH) and travel 5 to 6 hours.
- Railway station
- Battambang stationBattambang station, opened in 1933, is on the Phnom Penh to Poipet line; passenger services have changed often, so confirm current trains.
- Getting around
- Tuk-tuks and hired cars with driversTuk-tuks and hired cars with drivers; the centre is walkable, but temples and hills need a vehicle.
- Daily budget
- Modest by Indian-traveller standardsModest by Indian-traveller standards; local museum and market entries are cheap, with higher costs for private cars, circus tickets and hotels. Quote prices in US dollars as locals often do.
- Senior comfort
- Good in town and at Wat Ek PhnomGood in town and at Wat Ek Phnom; Wat Banan and Phnom Sampeau involve steep steps, and heat is strong.
- Language
- KhmerKhmer; some English in hotels, cafes and tours, little Hindi.
Prices, opening hours and weather change. Recheck live details before booking.
Best time to visit Battambang: January, February, December. Month-by-month weather →
How many days do you have?
Battambang itinerary
One good day
1 day in Battambang
Leave early with a driver for Wat Banan, climbing only as far as suits you, then ride the bamboo train nearby. Return to town for lunch and a rest. In the late afternoon, walk the colonial streets around Psar Nath and finish at the Sangkae River and old bridge. Book the Phare circus on another day if a show is scheduled.
Day-by-day plan →Two days
2 days in Battambang
Walk the heritage streets and Psar Nath in the morning, visit the Provincial Museum (closed Mondays) in the heat of the day, then rest. Spend the late afternoon by the river and go to a Phare show in the evening if one is scheduled.
Day-by-day plan →Three unhurried days
3 days in Battambang
Walk the heritage quarter, Psar Nath and the museum, with a long lunch and rest, and the river at sunset.
Day-by-day plan →
