Cooch Behar sits on the western bank of the Torsa river in the plains of north Bengal, close to the Assam border. For centuries it was the capital of a princely state ruled by the Koch Bihar dynasty, which joined India only in 1949, and the town still reads as a planned royal capital: broad roads, a large central lake, and a red-brick palace under a metal dome. Maharaja Nripendra Narayan, who built the palace in 1887, is credited with shaping the modern town.
The sights are modest in number but sit close together. The palace, the Madan Mohan temple, the Sagardighi lake and the small railway heritage museum can be covered in a single unhurried day. The town's biggest moment is the Rash Mela, a fair of two to three weeks around Rash Purnima in November or December, built around the Madan Mohan temple.
Beyond the town, the district has older layers. Baneswar's Shiva temple, with its sunken sanctum and sacred turtles, is a short drive away, and Gosanimari to the south holds the Kamteswari temple and the ruins of an old Kamata capital. Rasikbil, a wetland in the east of the district, adds an easy nature day.
It is a quiet, low-key place that suits slow travellers, families and older visitors who prefer flat sights and small crowds. Many visitors also use it as a base for Jaldapara National Park and the Dooars. Winter, from November to February, is the comfortable season; the monsoon is very wet.
Before you plan
Cooch Behar at a glance
- Best months
- November to February is dry and coolNovember to February is dry and cool; the Rash Mela falls in November or December. March is workable, and June to September is monsoon with very heavy rain.
- Ideal trip length
- 1 to 2 days for the town1 to 2 days for the town; add a day for Baneswar, Gosanimari or Rasikbil
- Airport
- Cooch Behar AirportCooch Behar Airport (COH), about 6 km from the town centre, has had only limited, intermittent services; check current flights. Bagdogra (IXB) is about 140 km away
- Railway station
- New Cooch Behar JunctionNew Cooch Behar Junction (NCB), about 5 km from the town, is the main station; the old Cooch Behar station (COB) is in town and has a small railway museum
- Getting around
- TotoToto (e-rickshaw) and rickshaw for the town; hire a car and driver for Baneswar, Gosanimari and Rasikbil
- Daily budget
- A low-cost town by Indian standardsA low-cost town by Indian standards; main costs are car hire for day trips, entry tickets and simple meals. Costs vary, so ask your hotel
- Senior comfort
- Good for the town sightsGood for the town sights, which are mostly level and close together; day trips involve longer drives and basic facilities
- Language
- Bengali and RajbongshiBengali and Rajbongshi; Hindi and English are also used
Prices, opening hours and weather change. Recheck live details before booking.
Best time to visit Cooch Behar: January, February, November, December. Month-by-month weather →
How many days do you have?
Cooch Behar itinerary
One good day
1 day in Cooch Behar
Start at Cooch Behar Palace in the morning, giving it about two hours including the Durbar Hall and the back grounds. Walk or take a toto to Sagardighi for a short lakeside stroll and tea, then visit the Madan Mohan temple before lunch. After a rest, spend the late afternoon at the Railway Heritage Museum next to the old station if it is open, and return to the lake or the temple in the evening.
Day-by-day plan →Two days
2 days in Cooch Behar
Spend the morning at the palace and the nearby Sagardighi, then break for lunch and rest. In the afternoon visit the Madan Mohan temple and the Railway Heritage Museum. If it is Rash Mela season, end the day at the fair ground in the early evening.
Day-by-day plan →Three unhurried days
3 days in Cooch Behar
Visit the palace in the morning and Sagardighi afterwards. Rest after lunch, then see the Madan Mohan temple at dusk when worshippers gather.
Day-by-day plan →
