Pokaran sits in the Thar Desert about 112 km east of Jaisalmer and 172 km north-west of Jodhpur, and most travellers pass through it on the highway between the two. The name is said to mean the place surrounded by five salt ranges. For most of the world it is known for the Army's nuclear test range outside town, which is closed to visitors.
What it offers a traveller is smaller and calmer: a fort that is still a family home, a craft tradition of pale-clay pottery with a GI tag, and the pilgrimage shrine of Ramdevra a short drive north. The fort, historically called Balagarh, is the seat of the Champawat Rathores and has a small museum and a heritage hotel inside.
It works best as a stop of a few hours or an overnight rather than a base. Plan a morning at the fort and potters, a rest at midday and, if the dates allow, Ramdevra. The fair at Ramdevra in August or September fills the roads and rooms, so book or avoid.
For older travellers the town is flat and easy, but the desert heat is serious. Visit between November and February, plan outdoor stops for the morning, and rely on a hired car for the villages.
Before you plan
Pokaran at a glance
- Best months
- November to FebruaryNovember to February; March and October are workable. April to July is very hot.
- Ideal trip length
- Half a day to one night as a stop…Half a day to one night as a stop between Jodhpur and Jaisalmer
- Airport
- Jaisalmer AirportJaisalmer Airport (JSA) is about 110 km west by road; Jodhpur Airport (JDH) is about 170 km east
- Railway station
- PokaranPokaran (POK) on the Jodhpur to Jaisalmer line, North Western Railway
- Getting around
- Walk or take an auto in townWalk or take an auto in town; hire a car for Ramdevra and the pottery villages
- Daily budget
- Roughly ₹1,500 to ₹4,000 per person…Roughly ₹1,500 to ₹4,000 per person per day excluding hotel; fort-hotel stays cost more
- Senior comfort
- Good for the fort and town on flat…Good for the fort and town on flat ground; the main limits are heat and the length of the highway drives
- Language
- Hindi and MarwariHindi and Marwari; English is spoken at the fort hotel
Prices, opening hours and weather change. Recheck live details before booking.
Best time to visit Pokaran: January, February, November, December. Month-by-month weather →
How many days do you have?
Pokaran itinerary
One good day
1 day in Pokaran
Start at the fort in the morning, see the museum and walls, then visit the potters' quarter. After lunch, drive 12 km north to Ramdevra for the temple, Ram Sarovar and the stepwell, then return for sunset on the fort walls or on the road.
Day-by-day plan →Two days
2 days in Pokaran
Arrive by late morning, visit the fort and museum, rest, then explore the old town doorways and potters in the late afternoon. Stay at the fort hotel if you can.
Day-by-day plan →Three unhurried days
3 days in Pokaran
Spend the afternoon at the fort and museum, then an evening on the terrace.
Day-by-day plan →
